The best local dish I have ever eaten is without a doubt Ugali!
It’s amazing how the simplest of things capture and hold the attention of our hearts for so long, in admiration and appreciation…it’s only in hindsight that we even begin to understand the places and plates we have left our hearts and souls behind.
Ugali is neither mysterious as Biryani nor laid back as Kichdi. Neither predictable as a Masala Dosa nor a drama queen like Pav Bhaji.
It’s unlike any typical Indian melodrama associated with everything about the subcontinent.
It’s everything Kenyan. Ugali is tradition, culture, rootedness and a reminder to say close to home no matter how far and deep life takes you.
So what is Ugali? Essentially just coarse maize/corn meal, hot water and a pinch of salt. Cooked until it’s a nice round mound.
Sounds boring? Then you sure haven’t eaten it.
Ugali is comfort in a plate. Home away from home. Love served on a plate without any gimmicks.
Simple. Nourishing.
Healthy. Fulfilling.
Be it a palatial mansion or a tribal hut, a star hotel or a street stall; Ugali is served everywhere.
Always accessible. Always affordable. Always delectable.
A true blue East African dish served in every Kenyan home. Almost everyone you meet knows how to make it and everyone of them makes it in their own way.
Making Ugali is an art and not everyone get’s the texture right. A thin line blurs between a gooey mess and a perfect Ugali head. You get that right and you are a citizen by virtue of that skill alone!
It is the signature item of the country but a predictable yawn it is not!
Gracing my soup plate the very next day I landed in Nairobi, it left me deep in thought. As if asking me, Are you willing to open yourself to me darling?
Surprisingly, despite being used to an explosion of tastes and flavours in my mouth, I took to it like fish to water, astonishing myself! My tongue nodded in agreement as if it was the magic recipe the therapist wanted me to explore to heal my broken heart!
Uniquely local. Undeniably global.
Ain’t there a saying that goes if you have love on your side, you can move mountains and achieve the impossible? Ugali is a lot like that.
It’s like old love that doesn’t demand butterflies every Valentine’s day or upgrades in the decor every anniversary.
It goes with pretty much everything. It welcomes greens like sukuma wiki, lettuce or pumpkin leaves, stir fried with tomatoes and onions on the side. Just as warmly as a cup of rasam, sambar, curd or even just a bite of mango or gongura pickle.
Meat eater? No problem. There’s a plethora of meats that goes well with it. Don’t ask me the names though. I am vegan!
And if you are broke with nothing left in your pocket; neither love nor money, even then and especially then it would still hold you close and pat your back and nourish you as a mother would. With just a glass of water by it’s side.
To me, it is a humble reminder of a man who might have moved on to greener pastures but not without handing me the address to my true self. His presence is fading but the love will always remain.
On a plate, nudging me to tuck in the unforgettable memories and unconditional kindness that Kenya and it’s people showered upon a woman who landed on her soil with nothing but a heart full of dreams and a suitcase overflowing with Indian goodies.
On days when the jigsaw within me is scrambled and in a state of disarray, Ugali welcomes me like the smell of home after a long trip navigating the world.
A dream lost in the maze of borders, distance and timing is a dream gained in the palace of memories, miracles and belonging.
Like every Indian worth their salt, I honour the country that gave me the courage to go beyond my fears, fall in love and dream a dream of many dreams, by innovatively spinning my own magic dust on Ugali thus converting it into Upmali — a blend of Ugali and Upma; the mongrel child of Kenya and India.



Care to drop a tiny pearl from the ocean of your mind?